Somiedo National Park

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The first night we arrived in Somiedo, when we stayed at what the locals call ‘la Curva’, (remember, it was the place where Frank hacked a path for me to go bathing?), I had an extraordinary dream, which involved me changing into a Werewolf. Suddenly I was twice as tall and strong and full of an incredible energy, and I was walking on all fours.  I didn’t see myself, so I don’t know what I looked like, but it felt incredible.

The next day, when we visited the beekeepers house, there was a book of wolves on the table!

Some days further on, we go up the valley past Salienca to a group of lakes. It is a beautiful day, and the steep, winding road up to there allows for some stunning vistas. We have photos, but they don’t really do the majesty of the place justice. The trees are turning all colours, and some of the far away mountains have incredible layers of rock strata.


We leave Emma by the pass at 1700 metres and climb up to the lakes. A steep climb on the left hand side of lake Cueva brings us over the top of the hill to lake Calabazosa. As we come over the top, it instantly feels like we are really far away from other people. We descend to the lake and as it is a hot sunny day, we dare to consider a short dip. The water is ice-cold and clear, and it has that green tint that mountain lakes have – very refreshing! Some very beautiful fish (Rainbow Trout?) are frolicking just beneath the surface, enjoying the sunshine. There is an eerie, two second long and very clear echo. Ask a question across the lake, and you will get a clear answer…


After the swim, we have a picnic and lie back and enjoy the sun. We scan the mountainside for any sign of animal life… What’s that up there? A pair of mountain goats? Sadly we didn’t bring the binoculars with us, but keep our eyes trained on them. Then we spot another pair of animals above them, moving in a different way. They move too fast to be cows, possibly deer? Then one of them climbs higher and appears on the top of the hill as a silhouette. Moving as it does, close to the ground in a very powerful and slinky way, with a long tail…. We can only assume that they are a pair of wolves! One of them is definitely looking straight at us.


Later, a conversation with a local expert confirms that it is possible to see wolves in that part of the park.


We got back to Belmonte in time for the closing ceremony of La Fiesta de la Huerta y Pan de Escanda, only to discover that we’d won the raffle: A night for two in a local hotel of our choice! Apart from the raffle, there were many other prizes offered by local businesses, so that every stallholder got a prize: For the biggest Pumpkin, the greatest variety of products, the tastiest bread, the most species of mushrooms, the most beautifully decorated stall etc etc. Mari from the town hall organisation found  a reason to celebrate everyone’s achievements as she handed out the prizes, and so everyone went home feeling happy.

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  • Vera Lees says:

    Dear Ruth and Frank,

    your communion with horses and subliminal connections to wolves are inspiring. I saw a snippet on wordless talking to wild cats, leopards, lions and the sort. It is coming from the school of the horse whisperer which we got to know through the book and play. You too have an antenna for the forces that feed us from nature in every sense. Really awesome and great to know. Thinking of you both a lot and not just when dancing. Much love, Vera xx